Filed under: Thailand
We arrived from Malaysia by bus at Hat Yai then on another to Krabi where we overnighted before a boat to the Tsunami battered but now prestine island of Koh Phi Phi don.
Koh Phi Phi:
We arrived to grey skies but warm weather and managed to find some brand new digs up one of the hills from the main beach.
I booked in for some diving over the next couple of days with Hippo divers. We planned to relax on the idyllic sand beach flanked by Limestone kast headlands but the first day it rained like hell.
Day 2 I went diving but it rained a lot. The dive was ok but there was a big swell and the sites available were not that great, we dived Ko phi phi’s sister smaller island (a national reserve due to the island beng a nesting and subsequant harvesting site of swallow bird nest soup). THe dive was ok but visibility was crap and the coral a bit scrappy. A crappy day diving is still better than a day doing other things. Claire avoided the rain.
The next day was great weather blue blue skies and hot hot sun, we managed to get out to the Bida islands for diving, Bida nok and nai and it was great, top coral and great fish, still it s overdived with boats all over the shop.
THe last day we just relaxed and dossed about, it rained on and off but we could tell the weather was tirning for the best. we looked at the markets and ate.
Phuket:
This is the largest island in Southern Thailand and sex tourism den, the main beach is nice but rammed with chairs and free sunbathing is limited as so many chairs fill the sand. We found a nice place to stay we got it cheaper as the tourist numbers have dropped off in thailand over the recent past so they want people in beds. We lounged on the beach for a few days and I went for a dive on a huge boat out to Racha Noy and Racha Yai – two islands about 2 hours off the cost, great fish life huge thousand strong shoal of Fusiler fish we were hoping for Manta Rays but this marine beast still allouds me, the visibity was a lot greater than on Phi phi at about 30m but still the dive wasn’t amazing. On the last dive the current was running so strongly that we shot past the interesting stuff before we knew wherer we were! never mind….. shite loads of grub ont eh boat – i enjoyed that and the awesome weather.
Koh Sok National Park:
About 2 hours from Phuket we arrived at the national park, this is a great place, huge forested area with a massive lake about 65km fromthe nearest access road.
We decided to go elephant trekking for the afternoon and were introduced to our huge elephant whih took us slowly but surely up the riverbed of a small stream and waterfall, it was great, we couldn’t belive the elephant would get traction but no misshaps (thankfully : )) then we fed her a whole basket of bananas hihc she grabbed with her trunk and shoves in skin and all, their inquisative trunk is so nimble when it wants to be.
We stayed a night got up pretty early and trekked into the park, we could hear an elephant pretty close as we wandered through the trails but we didn’t see it. The fact it was the arse end of the rainy season meant some trails were closed but we walked to a waterfall of sorts then up to a high point in the park over millions of steps and a Indiana Jones style bridge. It was dense forest with loads of trees and bugs and animal noises, pretty amazing but the only wildlife we saw was a bird eating a lizard and lots of lizards and creepy crawlies. It was a fantastic place to relax and we seldom saw anyone else on our 5 hour wander.
Kanchanaburi -
After a bus into and out of Bangkok (we will explore this mad capital just before we fly home in January) we arrived at this city famous for being on the Death railway that linked Thailand and Burma. The city contains the famous bridge over the river Kwai that thousands of British and other POW’s were forced to build by the occupying Japanese.
We visited the bridge, the war cemetery and the museum and it was a very interesting place. The museum told of the atrocities that POW’s suffered at the hands of the Japanese and the horrendous living conditions during their working days, whilst the thousands of graves in the war cemetery were a real reminder of the life lost, UK, Dutch, NZ, OZ and other nationalities are lined up side by side. A lot of tour buses come to the site and friends and families come to see the graves, as I wandered the graves it was moving to see the flowers and cards from loved ones. One was from a 99 year old widow to her dead husband saying how she was glad she had finally made the trip.
The bridge itslef is a single guage railway crossing and filled with tourists wndering over it, a train still runs but just for jolly foerigners.
Sukhothai:
This is one of Thailand’s ancient city, formerly the capital of the Sukhothai kingdom in the 13 and 14th century. It is a UNESCO world heritage site and is bloody large. It is located about 15km from the modern city of the same name and after a short lorry journey to it we explore this vast 70km square site on bike.
WE visited about 8 temple like structures marveling at the multitude of Buddha images, palaces and general different types of temples. There were temples with moats, temples with multiple stupa, temples with multiple Buddha, Buddha with huge hands in a very small room (this was at Wat Si chum and was my favorite temple to explore). It was reminiscent of Angkor Wat in cAmbodia but the ruins are less immense, we also liked the temple on the hill (Wat Tapahan Hin) that gave a truly great view.
Chiang Mai:
Situated in Northern Thailand, I remembered this place fondly from my previous trip. We arrived in the city a day before the Loi Kratong festival (known locally as Yi Peng: Held on the full moon of the 12th month in the traditional Thai Lunar Calandar. Thousands of people assemble floating banana-leaf containers (krathong) decorated with flowers and candles onto the waterways of the city to worship the Goddess of Water. Hot-air lanterns (khom fai) are launched into the air. These are believed to help rid the locals of troubles and are also taken to decorate houses and streets.) . We had a great time. The city was packed all the time and there were street parades, markets, lanterns, fierworks, ballons and all sorts all over the place all of the time. The food was awesome and cheap as we have eaten anywhere.
We visited the cities temples and Claire went on a Batik painting class with a lovely lady called Ann, she created a elephant wall hanging and a Bob Marley Batik print. Very cool.
There was a parade of floats most nights to the Ping river and as we wandered down the streets we saw dancing, heard music took pics, dodged fireworks and ate like kings. Plus we took some time out and went to see Jimmy Bond film,
We also went on a 2 day overnight trek to see some of Northern Thailands ethnic Hilltribes. we first stopped in at a recreated (tourist) village where the ethnic minority hilltribes are housed for ease and convenience and where they can make more money and live ‘better’ than if they were in their native lands. We saw the distinctive gold neck clad Karen Longneck Tribe and yes the rings are bloody heavy (apparently the reason they wear rings about their necks is because there used to be Tigers in the places they lived that would attack and bite the women in the neck, thus metal neck bands means no Tiger food!) there were also Meo (Meow!) people, Hmong, Luha and Akaa tribes folks and they all seemed very happy in their touist bubble.
After this top we actually did some more elephant trekking and then finally began to walk. It was pretty tough going through forest, fields, hills, trees and finally up a bloody huge hill to overnight in a Lahu village. It was a great night, the local kids came and made friends and taught us magic tricks, it was great to see that up in the hills they can easily be amused by simple string and don’t need the artificial stimuli of telly and the like. Food was great also, sticky rice all the way and a great sunset and thai green curry.
Then onwards to Laos!
Filed under: Malaysia
Singapore:
After a poor at best 5 hour delay from crap Oz budget airline Jetstar we arrived in Singapore about 11 pm. We booked straight into a hotel in the Red light district (Gaylang) and as our taxi got closer the streets were packed with ladies of the night.
Luckily however the hotel was not the knocking shop we thought, all was good and cheap as chips, so we set about exploring Singapore…
First we buggered about exploring the bustling capital and city, taking in the old colonial district down by the river and feeling all British Empire and all, then we went to the pretty damn cool Asian Civilization Museum – this gave as the once over an all things anthropogenic and basically told about how the Malay peninsular was messed about by invading Japanese, Dutch British and a few others, it was a well stocked place with plenty of traditional dress, hands on demos and all.
Another day we spent wandering the river side and Fort canning hill, the very green park where the britts built a large fort bunker thing.
Then we went shopping, obviously when i say that i mean Claire more than I and she only did it as much as the budget would allow (so none really) but it was a relief to dip in and out of the air con bohemouth malls in the humid air.
Finally we took the advise of Jenny and Jay from Oz and went to Sentosa island. This is a man made place advertised as a resort with fake beaches swimming pubs and all. It was surprisingly good, full of cool Singaporean teens, but i went swimming with container ships as a backdrop. The journey there was fun enough on the monorail and all…. but i’d expect nothing less in fast paced Singapore.
Malaysia:
Bussed it from Singapore to Melaka(aka Malacca) the former Malay capital, nestled on the Malay straits (west coast of peninsular Malaysia). First impressions of Malaysia as it flew by the bus window are bloody hundreds of rubber trees all over the place.
Melacca was a great place, basically a colonial chess piece in years past, the dutch had a bit then the britts and before that the Japanese I think. It was pivotal in its location on the shipping route, so the dutch wanted it for spice trade. There were lots of battles for control, cool dutch looking buildings remain, a host of random museums, a bustling china town with great street food, great local artist called Charles Cham (play safe use Malaysian rubber). We wandered around the local fort come church come highest point in town the site of the governors residence and I wandered about the museums. The whole city just had a great relaxed vibe oh and i just remembered it was all about the veg curry joint with a 2 USD lunch buffet all eaten with hnds and served on a Banana leaf -fantastic.
KL – Well what can I say? … i didn’t love this 4 years ago and it is same old now but claire and I managed to have a descent enough time. we camped in China town (just a term of speech – we slept in a guest house run by a nice butch lady boy, with more fish tanks than beds….). Shopped in the mad covered china town market, went to the Petronas Towers (tallest building in the world until 2004 when another Asian country built something and errected a spire on top to pip this beast : )). Wandered ……………… Ate free curried chicken and noodles on the roof of our hotel whilst watching a shitty copy of Kung Fu Panda. Ah and we also went to the Batu Caves the bloody large limestone caves about 6 km from KL center the site of many monkies and a huge Hindu shrine, pretty damn cool and this time not raining.
Cameron Highlands:
A lovely pleasant place, the weather was a little rainy but in the highlands it is always this way. We coincided our visit with Deepvaliso there were about 5 million KL residents taking a break here but still it didn’t loose it’s appeal. We went top the huge Boh tea plantation set up by a Scott a load of years ago, the view of the mountainous tea plantation was fabulous, lush uncleared tea as far as you can see. We also went to a honey farm, strawberry farm and a variety of other farms grown using hydroponics. The highlands has really seen a take off in agriculture since i was last here and the fact that water is running short in the area underlines how much they need to keep an eye on this. They grow watercress, straws, turnips, corn, all the fruit you can think off and loads more.
Another day we went trekking along one of the famous jungle trails. We had a great time, the path was a little washed out in places as it being the arse end of the rainy season meant bank erosion had occurred, but we saw huge trees, lush vegetation, heard the deafening cacophony of Cicada’s and birds and sweated our way along.
Pulau Pangkor:
This was lovely little island off Malaysia’s west coast, we had a bit of rain here as our visit was during the transition from the west to the east Malay monsoon, but it was nice to relax on a beach and do very little.
We ate great seafood here too, lovely prawns and squid. When the sun finally did come out we jumped on the white sandy beach and relaxed in the water.
Bukit Merah:
We visited this little Malay tourist spot on the advice of Jay and Jenny our English mates in oz on the tip off that you can get up close to some Orangutans. It was an effort to get to this lakeside tourist spot but after much taxi and bus combination we found ourselves on a boat shooting over to Orangutan Island. Once there we came face to face with about 30 Orangutan’s from little baby ones oddly being cared for in cots (?) to ruddy huge ones after a feed and some attention. It was pretty cool, the idea of the island is that you are the ones int he cage as you explore the place inside huge mesh tunnels and the Orangutan’s move about it. claire feel in love with the 4 month and 6 month old babies being hand reared they were i must admit very cute indeed. I was more amused by a juvenile male that came frtom the island interior into the shalls of the lake climbed up on a frat and had a piss then drank it! Ah the joys of captivity!
After the primate experience we caught a bus to Hat Yai in Southern Thailand…




